Indian Creek Part II: Not the adventure I expected.

This is a journal of the 6 Shooter Climbing Day through my eyes. 

                            (The South Six Shooter and the North Six Shooter)

         The South Six Shooter! Yes let's do it! We're finally gonna climb a classic desert tower.  We've talked about doing this every year in the creek and now we are. I'm nervous and excited. This will be our rest day. A long hike sure, but easy climbing. Around the campfire, we finalize our plans. I'm now only slightly troubled by the fact that in our rush to pack, we forgot our guide book. (I was pissed earlier in the week, but had gotten over it.) By head lamp, I read the description in a friend's Falcon guide over and over, paying close attention to the approach and descent. You see, I've had a few frustrating and terrifying experiences on multi-pitch climbs. So now, I try to memorize the approach, climb topo and descent route. Falcon guides are notoriously insufficient and inaccurate. But it's all we've got. Drive between the north and south towers. Hike up to the south side. Three short 5.6 pitches. Two rapels to get down. It seems simple enough. I suggest we start between 8 and 9. We compromise with 9:30. The next morning we leave camp at 10:52.
            Cody and I are undoubtedly the most excited. We're down to five climbers, since one member decided to enjoy the rest day in Moab. Soon we embark down the dusty 4-wheel drive road.  After seemingly make a wrong turn, we end up at a No Motorized Vehicles sign. Sensibly, we turn around and find another wash turn-off that heads between the North and South Six Shooter. This looks good, exactly what they book said, 'drive between the two towers to the end of the road'. We've been bumping along for about an hour when the road just ends in some trees. Discussing our options, we decide to head back to a turn-off we spotted that seemed closest to the South tower. Even though this is not the south side, we presume we can head up to the mesa and wrap around to the base of our climb.
      I've tried to mentally prepare myself for this daunting approach. There should be a relatively short hill to get to the top of the mesa, then a slog up the scree slope where the tower sits. Packs on, we head up the hill. Soon we find ourselves in this boulder garden, amongst massive black and tan rocks poised on red sandy stacks of sandstone.

Cairns! We spot little stacks of rocks hikers and climbers use to mark trails. We're on the right track! As I realize that this approach alone is going to take a couple hours, I ask if anyone brought a head lamp. I've forgotten mine.Thankfully Kevin has one and Cody brought two.  

      Finally, we come to a short cliff that guards the mesa top. Jay scales a hand crack in his Sanuks with his pack on, something I'm not willing to do. Kevin finds a secret cave that leads to the top and convinces me to follow. One more barrier to go, a short 2-foot gap in the rock over a dark, deep abyss. My wide eyes clue Jay into my apprehension of jumping over. I toss my pack and Jay thankfully offers a clasped hand. 

(Kevin in the cave)

              We are atop the mesa! Now we've just got to figure out where to scale this scree slope so we can actually start our climb. Generally up seems like a good idea. The hill is getting steeper and looser and we're still on the wrong side. So we convene to deliberate. I'm convinced we should go to the right since our climb is on the south west corner. We gingerly scramble up the steep rocky ridges and traverse the sandy gullies. My heart crumbles when I see the steep gully and mudwall that will prevent us from getting to that southwest corner. The guys decide to go up to the tower from where we're at, the north side. 

                                    (Jay with the North 6 Shooter in the background)

(Sam & I Hiking atop the mesa)

 (The loose ridges and scree to the tower base)

           About 100 feet from the base of the tower the guys cross an incredibly steep gully of sand and gravel. Almost to the other side, Sam slips and slowly slides about 10 yards, with seemingly no way to stop. When he finally comes to a stop, I'm fully petrified. I cannot see a way to cross this gully without falling. And even if I do, it still doesn't get us to the intended climb. Will I have to scramble back down and across? Or climb some unknown route full of loose breaking rock? I refuse to leave my rocky perch. Jay, Kevin and Cody have all made it to the base of the tower and are discussing their options. Sam's trying to convince me to cross over. I'm convinced that I'll fall with my heavy pack pulling me off balance. I feel completely stuck. Jay spies an unknown crack that will lead to the ledge connecting to the correct route. We can see climbers popping out from the other side. They've decided to go for it. Sam crosses back over to me, still clinging to my boulder. Sam can see that I've hit my wall. There are no tears, just a glazed over look of panic on my face. A level of anxiety has taken over, preventing me from thinking clearly. I can feel adrenaline coursing through me. A fog of fear filling my head.  Sam let's me know we can turn back. It's OK. Experience has taught him that at this point, I'm done. Jay & Kevin are encouraging us to continue, asking what they can do to help. I tell Sam I can turn back alone and he should go climb without me. Of course, he refuses. God, I'm such a sissy. I've hiked all the up here to stop 100 feet from the base! I'm gonna make Sam miss this climb. These thoughts just compound the anxiety. I chose this. I don't want to back down. But I feel paralyzed.

                                                        (The view from my perch)

            After a fuzzy 30 minutes of this, we slowly make our way down the ridge. As we reach the mesa top, I can feel my head clearing like a chill wave washing over me. We find some shade under a boulder and sit to eat and watch our friends. Thinking clearly, I regret not being able to continue. But, I now understand what Sam was telling me. There's no continuing once I've hit that level of fear. I feel overwhelmingly thankful for him. Some negative climbing experiences have led to this understanding between us as climbing partners. He provided the way out that I needed without any judgement. 

 

         Snacking on canned sardines and fruit leathers, we watch our friends. Jay, Kevin and Cody are colorful specks slowly ascending the tower. With my cheer returning, I suggest we explore the Mesa top and walk to the south side to watch the climbers summit. 

(Cryptobiotic Soil)

           This place is like another planet. We carefully tread around the cryptobiotic soil. These living ridges of  black-red ground cover is one of the earth's oldest known life forms. It seems as if we are the first people who have ever been here. Tiny curly blades of grass spring from cement hard ground. A boulder tempts us to drop the packs and don our climbing shoes. We stumble upon the most amazing rocks. Amongst a pile of sand and rubble, Sam spies something quite unique. A fossil?! A petrified bone at the least. 

  

         Finally on the south side, we watch climbers scattered over the tower.  From here we can see the parking area below where we should have started. The well marked scramble over the scree pile above, to the base of the climb we should have climbed. Next time, if there is a next time, we'll know where to start. I'm surprisingly satisfied to be down here, below the summit, in this unexpected adventure.

 

         Sam and I make our way back across the mesa. Over the abyss. Down the cave. Through the balancing boulder garden. To the car. We sit in the dirt and reminisce. Not long after, our friends come scurrying down. Their faces lit with satisfaction. We share our experiences. Theirs was quite an epic tale. Cody has been climbing only 6 months. This was his first multi-pitch. From what they share, it was quite an intro. Surely he'll never forget this climb. 

(Kevin, Jay, & Cody's climb & summit)

I only have to give a brief explanation of why we turned back. These good friends understand. Any shred of embarrassment I felt completely fades. We each had our own journey. We are bonded through our adventure, yet each personal experience so individual and unique. We pile into the car and head back home, our home of tents. Re-living the day, laughing and enjoying the beautiful sunset. 

Amazing photos courtesy of Jay Samuelson and Kevin Meurer. Thanks guys!

Rock What You've Got! (Tilapia & Mango Salsa)

Sometimes, when you are a woman, you wear stretchy pants. It is for fun. Also sometimes you watch Nacho Libre when you're blogging. 
Maybe I’m not fit for these duties, cooking duty, dead guy duty. Maybe it’s time I get a better duty. I'm laughing hysterically just typing this!

But anyways, let's get down to the niiitty griiitty.

 Do you remember that one time when everyone was shouting my name and I used my strength to rip my blouse. No? Well I guess it went more like this: In the middle of my Crossfit WOD Tuesday, I found myself in an inferno. Heat was pouring out of me. Me trying to do double unders. Figures. Here's how the internal battle sounded: It's these damned cold-weather running tights! But there's nothing you can do about that right now. Get rid of the shirt! No, you've been binging on popcorn and cookies since spring break. Plus, you haven't shaved your pits! It's so hot, I'm gonna die!
The shirt came off. Victory. Oh my god, I felt so much better. I crushed that last set of snatches (relatively speaking) and even got 9 double unders before tripping. Logically, I know that my brief moment of insecurity was silly. Ridiculous really. I should have taken my shirt off immediately. The only reason I'm revealing it now is to show that we all feel insecure sometimes. But screw that. Rock what you've got. For the sake of my beautiful niece, and my first grade girls, be proud ladies. Of whatever you've got. You're gorgeous.
I rarely see the ladies out climbing or at CFSD ditch their shirts. I don't know if it's modesty or insecurity. Either way, feel free to rip those shirts off girls. I've seen plenty of guys without (and with) perfect 6 packs rocking it. It gets hot in there. Rock what you've got, ladies! And dudes too. That's what I say.

Have I focused too much on my stretchy pants? I'll move on to food.

Why can't we ever have just like a salad?

Well, today is especially delicious.

Three basic recipes here 1.) Sauteed Tilapia (or any mild fish) 2.) Mango Salsa 3.) Fancy Quinoa - One night we ate Mango Tilapia salad and the next Tilapia over Fancy Quinoa with Mango Avocado Salsa. Even though there's so many competing flavors is the latter combination, our consensus was especially delicious. 

Fish note: I use the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Guide buy environmentally conscious seafood. They have an app for your phone with regular updates on fishing practices and mercury levels. Great for when you're shopping. 

Mango Salsa Recipe

Ingredients

1 large mango, chopped

1 large tomato, chopped

1 small jalapeno, seeds removed, diced

1/3 C red onion, diced

1/4 C cilantro, roughly chopped

1 t sea salt

1 lime, juiced (or 1/2 lemon if you must)

1/2 avocado, diced - optional

Directions: Mix it all up!

Sauteed Tilapia Recipe

Ingredients

1/4 Cup onion, diced

1 Tablespoon garlic, diced

1 Tablespoon coconut oil

1 T chopped cilantro or parsley

squirt of lemon or lime juice

2 large or 4 small tilapia Fillets (we like our protein servings big)

Directions

1.) Heat coconut oil in large skillet on medium heat. Add onion and saute for 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute more.

2.) Add Tilapia fillets and cook for 3-4 minutes. Flip over, sprinkle with chopped cilantro or parsley and squirt with lemon juice. Cook for 3-4 minutes more, until done. 

Fancy Quinoa Recipe

Ingredients

1/2 Cup organic quinoa

1 scant Cup water (meaning just under 1 cup)

1/4 Cup diced onion

1/3 C chopped sun dried tomatoes

3 cups organic baby spinach

1/4 Cup chopped almonds

Sea salt

Coconut oil

Directions

1.) Mix water and quinoa in a small sauce pan. Cover and bring to a boil on high. Turn to low and let simmer, covered for 15 minutes. Always fluff with a fork to check and stir when it's done.

2.) Toast Almonds- Do it, it's worth it: Put almonds in a dry skillet on medium-high heat. Stir often until fragrant and barely golden. (Careful, I often burn mine) 

3.) Heat some coconut oil in a skillet and cook onion for 3-5 minutes. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, sprinkle with salt and cook, stirring until spinach wilts down. 

4.) Add almonds and spinach tomato mixture to the quinoa pot. Use a fork to stir it all together. 

Combine however you want. 

So I revised and edited this post a few nights after Nacho Libre. If you think it's disjointed now, you should have seen the original. Literally a page of hilarious movie quotes. Hilarious.

Hug hug, big kiss, hug hug, little hug, kiss kiss, big hug. 

Sweet Caramelized Plantains

A few weeks ago, a culinary challenge awaited in my weekly Door to Door Organics box: Plantains. I hauled them along to Indian creek with no real plan. One night, I threw one in the fire. Initially I tried to toss it in naked. With some insistence from my friends, I wrapped it in foil. After some debate over the full moon, I pulled it out and gave it a taste. Gross! Starchy. Plain. Pasty. It might as well be soft tree bark.

Now, weeks later, one of the surviving plantains is nice and black. Necessary for perfect plantain frying according to my extensive googling. So I sliced it, fried it, added honey and cinnamon. Cozy and Delicious! I ate them plain for dessert. But these would be great over pancakes, waffles, ice cream or maybe some coconut pudding!

Make sure your plantains are good and black. You might have to wait a couple of weeks.

You could very easily double or triple this recipe.

Ingredients
1 black plantain, peeled and sliced diagonally in 1/2 inch chunks
1 Tablespoon coconut oil
1 Tablespoon honey or agave
Sprinkle of cinnamon

Directions
1. Heat coconut oil on medium heat in a large skillet (When you add the 1st plantain it should start sizzling right away).
2. Fry plantains until brown, 1-2 minutes each side.
3. Turn heat down to low and cook for 8-10 minutes more, stirring often.
4. Add honey and cinnamon. On low, stir and cook for 2 minutes more until caramelized and fragrant.

Indian Creek Part 1

It's been sooo long! For weeks I've been thinking, 'Will I ever blog again?'. I know that sounds so dramatic, but I felt dramatic. So here's the short version: I got through loads of testing and paper work for the end of quarter grades plus parent teacher conferences. The kids are doing great, by the way. Immediately after conferences, I spent a day cleaning and packing for a week in the Creek. Drove to Indian Creek, Utah, through the spring break snow storm. Made it through the tunnel an hour before it closed. Spent 7 days camping and climbing (I managed 1 shower in Moab). Rolled back into town just in time to do Crossfit workout 13.4. Came home to my sister Annie and my favorite baby Selah, visiting for the week. Plus 3 weeks worth of graduate course work to finish by tomorrow. Selah is lovable as ever and unfortunately going back to Wyoming for now. And that pile of course work is half way done.

Let's talk about Indian Creek. It was a wonderful beat down, as it always is. I go to Indian Creek to be reminded that I am, in fact, no good at rock climbing (At least that's how the creek makes me feel). As I shoved and twisted my hands and feet into the slightly wide first crack, I hollered "Oooh, now I remember what the fun is,". The first two nights were the coldest camping of my ENTIRE LIFE! We built a fire by 6pm both evenings. I cried, seriously cried, when I had to venture into the dark and strip off my million layers to pee. By morning everything was frozen, the olive oil, the sunscreen, everything! Sam suggested I wear his Carhartt coveralls over all my clothes because "it will make you happy". Oh, He was right. I was the envy of all my friends tromping around in my giant, fashionable, but most importantly toasty get-up. Here's some pictures for your viewing pleasure.

Soon the luscious, warm sunshine prevailed. Joy filled my climbing days. I climbed in shorts, got a little tan. I love the sun! Love the sun! So do the dogs.

  

I didn't climb as hard as I did in my day dreams, leading up to the trip. But the crack climbing really started to click. The one thing Crossfit has really improved is my pain tolerance. Indian Creek is 10% crack technique, 40% hand size & 50% pain tolerance. In years past, I just stopped when it hurt too much. But this year I just kept on and got some gobies to prove it.

Chocolate Corner was my most memorable climb of the trip. Chocolate Corner is this 50 ft (short for the creek) 5.9, open book corner crack. The size is thin hands, which is perfect for me. My earlier lead climb had left me quite anxious since it had felt much harder than the first time I did it, 1 1/2 years ago. As soon as I started climbing though, all my fear washed away. I was in the flow, just the movement of my body and the rock. Every hand jam felt so natural and solid. I had to remind myself to stop and place my first piece. But soon, I got tired and decided to hang on a cam for quite a while. As I finished, even some uneasy moves and foot slips didn't frighten me. Climbing without fear, just climbing, is an amazing feeling. Even though I didn't send, (climb from bottom to top without falling or hanging on the rope) I was ecstatic after my lead of Chocolate Corner. It took a lot of effort for me to finish that climb. I still have the glory wounds on my wrist from it. I felt like I was finally learning to crack climb. I already want to go back.

This is actually a pic of Chocolate Corner from last year, the first time I tried it. 

P.S. To give some perspective, my buddy climbed it after me in about 90 seconds, barefoot.